![]() A flat ruler won’t work either, as the fabric in the gusset has to wrap around the labia. When I was fitting the HM-CBB measuring the gusset width with a tape measure didn’t work, as it is a dynamic space, changing shape as you move. In early 2019 I decided to try House Morrighan’s recently released Clover Boybrief (HM-CBB). Beverley had no advice other than trial and error in response to my question about gusset fitting, so I finally jumped in to try a pattern. Beverley Johnson includes pantie drafting instructions in her class, but the gusset length was specified as a fixed ratio to hip circumference, and the gusset width as the same 8 cm for all sizes. Many blogs recommended Beverly Johnson’s Craftsy Class ‘ Sewing Panties: Construction & Fit’ as the best place to learn about fitting panties, so I signed up. One of the problems I had was that no one could suggest a starting point for measuring or adjusting a pantie pattern for better fit in the gusset. ![]() If I had a well-fitting pair of panties I would not have bothered making them. Equally problematic were pantie drafting instructions that said: copy a pair of well-fitting panties. Back gusset width = 11 cm (This measurement stays the same through all sizes)Īs I suspected my fitting issues were with the gusset, instructions that assumed all gussets had the same width and length were problematic.Front gusset width = 8 cm (This measurement stays the same through all sizes).Gusset length = 14 cm (The gusset length stays the same trough all sizes).Measurement that were specified as staying the same through all sizes were: Crotch length – included in some instructions.Like most guides I found, her pattern was drafted off only four measurements, while others use five. Timelace Studio’s 2016 post on ‘ How to draft a basic panty pattern’ was typical of what I found, in that it worked off the assumption that all panties have same gusset length and width. I started searching online for how to fit the gusset or crotch, but came up empty. I was astounded when she told me that she just gets rid of any panties that are uncomfortable, as I all the panties I had ever bought had ridden up to give me constant wedgies. When I finally solved the fitting riddle, I told my daughter of my joy in having panties to wear that were comfortable and they fit right so I was not constantly aware of them. As a result they are extremely uncomfortable, and like the men who are always shifting their nuts to get comfortable, I am always pulling my panties out of my crotch. Ready-to-wear (RTW) panties ride up my butt, and the leg elastic sits on my labia. ‘Wedgie’ © Kate Harrison (used with permission) This is a tale of my search for fit and adjustment to panties in order to make a pair that fit me, and in the process discovering the neglect of variation in the shape of the bony pelvic girdle, and how this affects pantie fit (or lack thereof). Saying Farewell: Sewcialists Interviews. ![]() Behind the Scenes at the Sewcialists: Copy-Editing for Amplification.Saying Farewell: Highlights from the Who We Are series.Search for: Search Archives Archives Categories
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